A closer look at flyover land

December holidays, week 1

I feel like I'm doing everything in a series format these days. First the literary scavenger hunt, and now we're arriving at the peak festival season in Minnesota. The month of December is an exceptionally busy one for this festival-fond state. To try and get as much coverage as possible without making a web page that’s a mile long, I’m going to report weekly this month. Today’s installment will include events through Sunday, Dec. 6. Check back next Monday for the following week. Also check my blog on WCCO.com on Wed., Dec. 2, for a roundup of holiday tea spots.

St. Paul
Relax Into the Holidays
Dec. 1
Think your life is stressful? Find out what caused stress for the James J. Hill family and how they coped. Following the tour, take a class on modern-day relaxation techniques from life coach Beth Freschi.

St. Paul
The Homecoming: Christmas at the Ramsey House
Dec. 2-6
Tour the Alexander Ramsey House, decorated for the holidays as it would have been in 1875, complete with fresh-baked cookies out of the wood-burning oven.

Minneapolis
Holidazzle
Dec. 3-6
Truly a parade of lights, with life-size fairy tale characters decked out in splendid lit-up costumes. Allow extra time for traffic and parking, and if you’re planning on dining before or after, make reservations ahead or be prepared to wait.

Northfield
St. Olaf Christmas Festival
Dec. 3-6
This popular annual event is already sold out, but you can hear it on MPR, or check local TV listings—many stations nationally will carry it.

Bemidji

Lefse Cook-off Festival
Dec. 4
Boy, if there was one festival I could attend this season, I’d be tempted to choose this one. A lefse contest? Can I judge? Please?

Crookston
Winter Wonderland
Dec. 4
Sleigh rides, bonfires, luminary-lined streets.

Monticello
Home for the Holidays
Dec. 4
Santa leads the parade in a horse-drawn buggy, which will be used for visitor rides while Santa visits the little ones.

Owatonna
Christmas in the Village
Dec. 4-5
Stop by the Steele County Historical Society and enjoy horse-drawn sleigh rides, a lavish cookie sale, true wassail, and visit Santa. On Saturday, tour highly decorated historic homes.

Minneapolis
No Coast Craft-o-Rama
Dec. 4-5
Independent crafters make the most of the wonderful Midtown Global Market to display and sell their wares. You’ll find fun items here that are often unlike most of what you’d see at other craft shows.

St. Cloud
6th Annual Winter Nights & Lights Parade
Dec. 5
Bring your camp chairs and a thermos of cocoa, and usher in the holiday season with Santa and the Grinch. Stores open for your shopping pleasure.

Little Falls
A 1918 Christmas with the Lindberghs
Dec. 5
Tour the Lindbergh home and learn about their Christmas celebrations from living history characters.

St. Paul
Grand Meander
Dec. 5
Kick off the holiday shopping and noshing with a stroll down Grand Avenue’s 30-some blocks of independent (mostly) retailers and restaurants.

Annandale
Immigrants’ Christmas
Dec. 5
Visit the Pioneer Park and see it dressed for Christmas long ago. Enjoy live music, shopping, and fry bread and stew.

Le Sueur
W.W. Mayo House Candle Light Tour
Dec. 5
Tour the tiny home once inhabited by one of the founders of the Mayo Clinic.

Grand Rapids
A Logging Camp Christmas
Dec. 5
Dress warmly—you’ll be walking outdoors at the Forest History Center while observing lumberjacks in action and horses pulling carriages, before visiting the cook’s shack to see how lumberjacks celebrated decades ago.

Wabasha
Old-Fashioned Christmas
Dec. 5
Christmas caroling, cookie walks, artists’ studio tours, horse-drawn wagon rides, Santa, and cookie decorating. Bonus: bring a canned good or unwrapped new toy for free admission to the National Eagle Center open house.

Caledonia
Winter Wonderland
Dec. 5-6
Parades, barn quilt tours, balloon launches, and the Historical Society’s Old-Fashioned Christmas. And—a hot air balloon rally!

Taylors Falls
Christmas at the Folsom House
Dec. 5-6
Tour the home of the lumber baron W.H.C. Folsom.

St. Paul
Hill House Holidays
Dec. 5-6
Costumed actors portray servants at the lavish James J. Hill House, giving living history tours.

Biwabik
Weihnachtsfest
Dec.5
Horse-drawn trolley rides, children’s musical, ethnic foods, Christmas carols all reflect the town’s ethnic heritage.

Literary scavenger hunt, part 7

Wow--I'm impressed with myself. I thought for sure I'd have given up by now. But no. Seven weeks in and still going strong.

This week's question:

Name the Pulitzer Prize-winning playwright, with deep Minnesota ties, described by this rhyme:

Pianos, trains, and a guy named Joe,

All brought to a stage of lust and woe;

They seized on this life, and it took a toll,

But learning and laughter warmed the soul.

This week's question took me to two fun places, including this one, which arguably has the best view out its front door of any bookseller in the Twin Cities:

The Bookcase in Wayzata (for you out-of-towners, that's pronounced Why-zetta), which looks out at Lake Minnetonka.

I've been to so many small, cozy, intimate, charming bookshops that I'm running out of ways to describe them. What a bad problem to have.

The second stop of the week was on the other side of the metro, in St. Paul's Cathedral Hill neighborhood.

Hard to see, but it's Common Good Books, the shop owned by Garrison Keillor. I happen to really like this little basement shop; it's crammed full of books, with tall shelves, and then books crammed between the shelves and the ceiling. I've heard the comment that it's claustrophobic, and I can understand that--but as long as books are what's crowding me in, I'm fine. Plus, you have to love a bookstore that has a huge poetry section, as well as this:

The question for week 8 is: Most of Alison McGhee’s Julia Gillian stories take place in which Twin Cities neighborhood?

Tricky question, this one. But I believe I have sussed it out.

Literary scavenger hunt, part 6

The question for week 6: Which Minnesota poet ran for president five times and once said “if any of you are secret poets, the best way to break into print is to run for the presidency?”

Since it was going into Minnesota history, it was more than appropriate that one of this week's stops was here:

The Minnesota History Center, one of my favorite places. But not just because they do cool things with history, but they have--not one!--but two museum shops.

Both chock full of gifts, food items, clothing, and, of course, books. Tons of books, by and about and even just remotely connected to Minnesota.

Such an enjoyable place to shop!

The other stop for the week was also on the east side of town, on a charming street in downtown White Bear Lake.

Lake Country Booksellers, right next to the Cobblestone Cafe. Like some of the other small stores I've visited, this one has a small but varied collection of books for sale and feels quite cozy on the inside.

I wish I'd had more time here, not just for the books, but for the entire street. There are what looks to be a fun bunch of shops within a few blocks. Hmmm...perhaps there's a field trip in my future...

The question to ponder over your turkey and stuffing this week: Name the Pulitzer Prize-winning playwright, with deep Minnesota ties, described by this rhyme:

Pianos, trains, and a guy named Joe,

All brought to a stage of lust and woe;

They seized on this life, and it took a toll,

But learning and laughter warmed the soul.

Literary scavenger hunt, part 5

So: the question for week 5 was, Which rock band, whose lead singer grew up in Minnesota, has songs populated with literary figures from William Butler Yeats to Nelson Algren to Minnesota’s own John Berryman?

See, if you play along, you get to learn not just about the literary community, but about the musical community too!

Two stops this week. One I mentioned last year in a round-up of Excelsior shops: Excelsior Bay Books. 

A cozy, main-street bookstore with friendly staff and--you can barely see it in the photo--a little seating area. When I stopped by for the scavenger hunt, a group of moms were having an animated discussion about books while their little ones played with on the floor next to them. Very cheerful.

We also stopped here:

Big Brain Comics in Minneapolis. The name is somewhat humble--it's more than just comics.

There are comics, and manga/anime, and graphic novels, and assorted more traditional books. Everywhere. Lots and lots and lots. I've stopped by here many times with my kids, but it's not just a treasure trove for children--there's plenty to attract adult readers as well.

Another week, another set of stamps in my passport. The question for week 6 takes us down a political road: Which Minnesota poet ran for president five times and once said “if any of you are secret poets, the best way to break into print is to run for the presidency?”

Get your do-gooder on this Tuesday

--and do even more good. A local organization, GiveMN, has been set up to help people learn more about Minnesota nonprofits and to facilitate donations more easily. To that end, they've received funds to do a couple of very cool things: one, funders have pledged to pay the credit card fees, meaning that money you donate via GiveMN goes 100% to the charity.

But second, from 8 a.m. Nov. 17 to 8 a.m. Nov. 18 (CDT), any donation you make to the cause of your choice will be matched from a $500,000 matching grant fund, which will be divided equitably among the nonprofits who receive donations. So--not only will the nonprofits not have to absorb credit card or PayPal fees, they'll even get a bit more for the dollar.

Spend some time on GiveMN's site and see who strikes your fancy.

Oh--one suggestion? In my not-chasing-around-Minnesota time, I work part-time for this organization: the Sajai Foundation. We are (IMHO) an extremely cool organization which is combating childhood obesity by developing curricula for use by schools, after-school programs, and summer camps that teach kids about how to live a healthier lifestyle. One of our programs focuses on getting kids back outdoors, exploring nature, and learning how to care to the earth.

If that should appeal to you :-) you can find our page at GiveMN here.

But thanks to anyone who contributes to any nonprofit on Nov. 17--the economy has been no kinder to nonprofits than it's been to almost everyone, and every little bit helps.

Friday food

Thanks for the good wishes about the new book! I'm excited to get started, and to visit more of outstate Minnesota. So much to see, so much to do!

But in the meantime, it's Friday, and it's time to talk about food.

Damn Good Food: 157 Recipes from Hell's Kitchen. I've talked about this Hell's Kitchen before, the restaurant in downtown Minneapolis, with another location in Duluth. Fantastic food, lots of attitude, and servers in pajamas on the weekend. Now the owner, Mitch Omer, and local food writer Ann Bauer have compiled a collection of recipes served at the restaurant.

But this isn't just any ordinary cookbook. The table of contents starts out sweetly with a chapter on "Hearth and Home: Recipes from the Heartland", followed immediately by "Drugs, Sex, and Gluttony: Recipes from the Vagabond Years", and the book ends with recipes appropriate for all manner of gatherings, including funerals.

Beyond that, though, this still isn't just a cookbook--although it is that, and a wonderful one to boot. It's about Mitch Omer, who, as Jacques Pepin notes on the cover, "makes Anthony Bourdain look like an altar boy." A childhood arsonist and the kid who started fights grew up into a brawling, drinking, drugging, job-losing adult who appeared to be on the fast track to an early death or life in prison. By the age of 40, he was hitting bottom, and when a psychiatrist diagnosed him with bipolar disorder and started him on drugs, he turned his life around. Now married and owner of the ever-popular Hell's Kitchen, Omer is still not exactly altar-boy material, but he's passionate about food, his food, and in a surprisingly generous turn, provides not just some, but all the recipes from the restaurant, including Mahnomin porridge, lemon-ricotta hotcakes, the walleye BLT, the bison bread, the homemade peanut butter, and (my favorite) the huevos rancheros.

Again, it's not just the recipes that make this book a delight. It's chock-full of the author's family photos and mementos, even a note he wrote to the "tooth fery" when he was a kid. It's also full of Omer's attitude, and those who don't like profanity may want to read through squinted eyes (when discussing variations on eggs Benedict, Omer says, "You may notice that some of these are not true Benedicts. Tough shit." And if you screw up the eggs, well, he'll tell you that you screwed them up--except "screwed" isn't the word he uses).

It's this attitude, this story, these recipes, that all together make for a lively read--and bonus! You get great recipes when you're done reading!

Happy news for me!

Wander Minnesota

Twin Cities literary scavenger hunt, part 4

I am SO winning this thing. Except for all the other people I saw this week, whose scavenger hunt cards were equally full of stamps.

This week's question was a bit of a stumper: Which Pulitzer Prize-winning poet wrote a poem that references the Walker Art Center, the Guthrie Theater, and the former Minneapolis Artificial Limb Exchange, and what is the name of the poem?

I know, and I'm not telling.

Two stores were part of this week's challenge, and one of them wasn't even in Minnesota (but is so close that it might as well be).

Back to Books in Hudson, WI. Just a hop, skip and a jump off I-94 right after you cross the river into Wisconsin, Back to Books is a cozy main street store with a nicely varied collection of books.

You have to love a small-town bookstore. When I arrived, just as it was opening, the woman at the store was still getting ready for the day and asked if I minded hanging around and not stealing while she ran to the bank for change. Of course I didn't mind hanging around and not stealing--it's a lovely indie bookstore with lots to browse.

The second bookstore of the week is another genre store, tucked into a lower-level south Minneapolis building.

Once Upon a Crime Books. Puns are one of the store's specialties.

The congenial man behind the counter told me about the event of the previous evening, when author John Connolly (The Book of Lost Things, The Gates) talked about the differences between those two books, namely that The Book of Lost Things was a child's story told for adults, while The Gates is an adult's story told for children. Having read the former and liked it very much, I'm very curious to read The Gates, and wished I could have attended Connolly's reading.

Once again, another fun week, exploring all that the literary landscape in Minnesota (and almost-Minnesota) have to offer.

The question for week 5: Which rock band, whose lead singer grew up in Minnesota, has songs populated with literary figures from William Butler Yeats to Nelson Algren to Minnesota’s own John Berryman?

I know the answer. Do you?

Twin Cities literary scavenger hunt, part 3

Last week's question: In 1898, a 13-year-old boy named Harry ran away from his Minnesota home to serve as a drummer boy in the Spanish-American War. He didn’t make it out of Sauk Centre that day, but later, as the first American to win a Novel Prize for Literature, he traveled widely. What was his name?

That was the question that sent me across the metro, making three stops.

The Minneapolis Institute of the Arts. What's that, you say? What on earth is a museum doing on a literary scavenger hunt?

Don't worry. It does make sense.

The Museum Shop. Filled with art-related items, including--see? I knew you'd get it--books. Lots of books.

Oh, and if you hurry? And visit by Nov. 15? You can catch the wonderful ofrenda exhibit made by local young people. That, and I guess there's this other big-time exhibit as well. Note: if you're taking in the latter, plan ahead--the exhibit is hugely popular, and time slots are selling out in advance. Plan for extra time to park as well.

Then it was off to mighty Roseville, home to Har Mar Mall and this stop:

Again, I'm sure you have a question, such as, "How did a big chain end up on what otherwise is a list of independent stores and small-press publishers?" Well, rumors have it that the Roseville Barnes & Noble is actually one of the busiest B&N's across the country. Not to mention it has one of these, a rarity for a B&N, at least in this state.

A used bookstore of its very own.

The final stop was a place I've meant to check out for years, and just never had the time/opportunity: Midway Books. Part of what's stopped me has been location; the corner of University and Snelling Aves. in St. Paul is an awfully busy one, and I wasn't sure about parking. Turns out they have a free lot behind the building, so that's taken care of. You do need to have some patience for overall traffic, though. But it's worth it.

Two stories of used and rare books at reasonable prices, organized fairly understandably, and a good variety. Plus, for reference, there are these all over the place:

Photos of authors.

So, I'm still on track and haven't missed a spot. This week's question: Which Pulitzer Prize-winning poet wrote a poem that references the Walker Art Center, the Guthrie Theater, and the former Minneapolis Artificial Limb Exchange, and what is the name of the poem?

It took me a bit of creative Googling to find this one. But now I have it, and am ready to tackle this week's stops.

November festivals

What this month’s list doesn’t reflect is the vast number of tree lighting, welcome to winter, get ready for the holidays festivals and craft fairs. Check your local community chamber for local information. Don’t forget to check the Minnesota Historical Society’s event page; they’ve always got something interesting going on.

Minneapolis
Art Attack ‘09
Nov. 6-8
A warehouse full of art and artists, all in time for the holidays.

Rochester
Mayowood Mansion Christmas Tours
Tues., Fri.-Sun., Nov. 6-22
Advance registration required. Visit the home of the Mayo Clinic founder and see it decorated for the holidays, with guided tours to explain the historical significance of the home.

Minneapolis
The Affair Minneapolis
Nov. 7-8
Really, can you possibly go wrong with focused on fine wines, foods, chocolate and décor? I didn’t think so.

Two Harbors
Annual Edmund Fitzgerald Memorial Beacon Lighting
Nov. 10
The anniversary of the sinking of the Edmund Fitzgerald is commemorated with special tours that allow visitors to see the lighthouse beacon lit from inside the lighthouse, the only time each year that this privilege is available. Bring warm clothes.

Lutsen
Annual Masters’ Bluegrass Weekend
Nov. 13-15
The 19th annual celebration of bluegrass in a beautiful locale.

Winona
Swan Watch Bus Tour
Nov. 14
Reservations required by Nov. 9. View migrating Tundra Swans and other wildlife. Box lunch included.

Grand Marais
Winterer’s Gathering & Arctic Film Festival
Nov. 19-22
The North House Folk School outdoes itself with this festival, including all manner of winter skill courses (building a wood stove, snowshoe construction, build a traditional toboggan), ski and gear swap, winter camping, and movies from countries such as Iceland, Mongolia, and Canada.

Minneapolis
MCAD Annual Art Sale
Nov. 20-21
This is your chance to find that “artist on the verge.” MCAD students create and sell artworks. Go early.

Minneapolis
Harvest Jamboree
Nov. 20-22
The Minnesota Bluegrass Old-Time Music Association began this festival just three years ago, combining old-time bluegrass with live concerts, workshops, contests, and a banquet.

Aitkin
Fish House Parade
Nov. 27
Wild and crazy ice fishers decorate their  fish houses and take them on parade prior to settling them on the frozen lake for the season.

Minneapolis
Holidazzle
Thurs-Sun, Nov. 27-Dec. 20
Truly a parade of lights, with life-size fairy tale characters decked out in splendid lit-up costumes. Allow extra time for traffic and parking, and if you’re planning on dining before or after, make reservations ahead or be prepared to wait.

St. Paul
Hmong New Year
Nov. 27-19
This is the 33rd year this event has taken place in St. Paul. Visit to learn more about the Twin Cities’ Hmong community, and enjoy live music, dancing, a beauty contest, and food. I visited this last year and had a great time. Make sure to leave time for munching on some of the delectable food treats.

Blue Earth
The Scarfing of the Jolly Green Giant
Nov. 28
Be there by 11 a.m., or you’ll miss the spectacle of Santa being lifted by machine to wrap a warm scarf around the Giant’s neck.