Friday food

The final entry for Book Week is the recently published Shefzilla, by Heidi's chef Stewart Woodman. You may remember the devastating fire that destroyed Heidi's earlier this year, but the good news is, besides publishing a cookbook, Woodman is getting ready to reopen Heidi's in a new location.

In the meantime, you'll have to make do with his book, which isn't exactly making do. This is a lively, fresh book, full of intriguing and yet doable-sounding recipes, which often come with Woodman's often-playful commentary (his Chopped Liver recipe starts: "Don't make this recipe. No, I mean it. You will never look at liver the same way again; you may even consider yourself a fan. Don't say I didn't warn you."). The premise is that you can eat well--healthfully, sustainably, enjoyably--at home. Some recipes sound "gourmet," like Foie and Lentil Crepes with Hibiscus Syrup, while others, such as homemade potato chips, are easy comfort food.

Woodman explains his approach to this combo of recipes this way:

"Cooks differ from foodies in a significant way: first and foremost, they love not just to eat but to cook as well. Foodies love to eat; they may have dined at some of the world's great restaurants and have extraordinarily refined palates. But the little old lady who cooks, who stands over the stove for the sheer joy of it, who never traveled a lick and never ate at the great restaurants--she knows as much or more about food than the most well-traveled foodie ever will.

"The result of this cultural divide is significant. The foodie in me tends toward wanting to consume the latest trend or fad, while the cook in me simply wants to eat good food...with every risotto, with every dish I cook, I fall more deeply in love with the craft. It's alchemy, and every cook shares the basic need to try to create gold from lead. Foodies may laud the result, but only cooks can truly appreciate what it took to achieve it."

This is a bright, colorful, visually appealing, and highly readable book. Oh, and guess what? Luscious recipes to boot.

My thanks to Borealis Press, which sent me a review copy and gave me permission to reprint the following recipe (all recipe notes are from the book, not from me).

Slow Cooker Ribs

Serves 4-6

2 ½ pounds beef chuck boneless “country-style ribs”
¾ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon pepper
3 tablespoons canola oil, divided
5 shallots, roughly chopped
5 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
2 medium carrots, finely chopped
2 medium onions, finely chopped
½ bottle last night’s leftover red wine (assuming there is any)
3 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
1 bunch parsley stems, tied together with twine
About 4 cups beef stock
¾ teaspoon fleur de sel or ¼ teaspoon truffle salt

1.    Season ribs with salt and pepper. Heat a sauté pan large enough to hold the short ribs in one layer on high heat, add 1 tablespoon canola oil, and brown half of the short ribs on all sides, about 8 minutes total, transferring to a bowl when done. Repeat with 1 tablespoon of oil and remaining ribs.
2.    Reduce heat to medium. Heat 1 tablespoon canola oil and add vegetables (shallots through celery) to pan and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 8 to 12 minutes. Remove from heat and place vegetables in slow cooker.
3.    Using the same sauté pan, reduce wine by half over medium heat.
4.    Arrange short ribs over vegetables, add reduced wine, herbs (thyme through parsley), and enough hot beef stock to cover meat. Cover and cook on high 4 to 5 hours, until meat is very tender but not dry.
5.    Discard herbs; serve ribs, juice, and vegetables over your favorite mashed potato recipe. Finssh with fleur de sel or truffle salt, as desired.

 

Comments

[Carrie K]

The book sounds delicious.